Saturday, December 10, 2011

Jewelry Making : How to Rivet Jewelry

In order to build a rivet for jewelry, tap the new rivet into place and flare the tubing out. Find out how to use a ball-peen hammer to flatten a rivet out with help from a bench jeweler and gemologist in this free video on riveting jewelry. Expert: Chuck Koehler Contact: www.cmkcompany.com Bio: Chuck Koehler, a bench jeweler and gemologist, has been in the jewelry industry since 1978. Filmmaker: Dimitri LaBarge

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Basic Electronic Components and Supplies Needed by the Electronics Newbie

!±8± Basic Electronic Components and Supplies Needed by the Electronics Newbie

Basic Components and Supplies to Start Out

Working on electronic projects is a great way of learning electronics and depending upon the project undertaken, a number of tools and electronic components may be needed accordingly. There are some basic electronic components and supplies which are needed in almost all electronic projects and are a 'must have.'

The first electronic components that you need to look into are resistors. You should have a good range of resistors in different values ranging from one ohm to 10 mega ohms with a 5% tolerance. Carbon film resistors are a good choice for small electronic projects. They are inexpensive and readily available from both online and offline merchants.

Another important component that is needed are capacitors. Ceramic disc capacitors or electrolytic capacitors are both good choices for beginning electronics projects, and again, a good variety would be needed in terms of values. Lower voltage capacitors (up to 50V) would certainly suffice for most beginners projects.

Signal diodes are also a good buy for electronic projects and these electronic components find application in a number of projects. A package of 50, 1N914 silicon diodes are a good choice as they can be used for both switching and analog signals.

The next electronic component to consider would be rectifier diodes which are needed in power supplies. About 20 of these diodes in varying values would be a good number to begin with.

Transistors are the next electronic components to be considered. PNP and NPN, which are the most common and widely available transistor would be needed. I recommend TO92 package for beginners.

LEDS, in a mix of colors and both rectangular and round packages are a good addition. Most standard LEDS readily available require about 3V to power them.

A switch is a good component to have on hand. Often switches are used to turn your circuit on or off. If you have to choose only one to start, choose a toggle or push button switch.

Depending upon the circuits and projects, some integrated circuits would also be needed. One of the most commonly used ICS is the 555 timer. Like all of the components listed above, they are available in both through hole and surface mount packages. Start with the through hole type until you feel more comfortable soldering smaller components.

Last but not least, some hookup wire and circuit boards are a must for electronics projects. Depending on your project, how about a project box or enclosure? These protect your circuit from the elements and dust and can be mounted with screws.

Ready to get started with electronics? Now that you have the basic components all together, find yourself a good book on basic circuits. If you're really new to electronics, don't be afraid to get a book that is geared towards children. The simple explanations and diagrams in those books will have you ready to move to the next level of experimenting quickly!


Basic Electronic Components and Supplies Needed by the Electronics Newbie

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Do I Really Need a New Air Conditioner?

!±8± Do I Really Need a New Air Conditioner?

So, you turn on your air conditioner to cool the place. The place does not get cool. So, you call the repairman.

He shows up. He checks your system. "I have bad news for you. Your compressor is bad," he says. "You need a new condensing unit. I can install it day after tomorrow, for 00."

You, being the clever consumer, are suspicious. "Show me," you say. So he does. The cover is off the unit and you can see the compressor. He cycles it on. You hear and see the fan start, but quite obviously the compressor is sitting there and not running. Well, whatcha gonna do? It is not running. Must be bad. So, you sign the work order, and start figuring where you will cut back to pay for this sudden and expensive repair.

Well, congratulations, sucker. You have probably been had.

Compressors do go bad, of course. But most of the time, when the compressor does not start, it is not the compressor that is at fault. So, for your information and edification, here is my list of the things that keep a compressor from starting, ranked more or less in order of frequency of occurrence, with some indication of cost and time to make a proper repair. I will stick with those cases where the fan comes on and the compressor does not; if neither fan nor compressor runs the problem is obviously electrical and easily diagnosed.

Now, if you decide to try any of these repairs yourself, be certain you disconnect main power at the breaker panel before starting.

The most common reason that the compressor will not start is a failed starter capacitor. This part, depending, costs anywhere from to and can be purchased over the counter at any supply house. The skill level required to change it is low. Anyone can do it, if they properly identify the part and own a screwdriver and a nut driver. Some electrical tape and/or foam rubber helps here too. The capacitor is a metal can (usually silvery, but possibly painted grey, dark green, blue, or black)located in the electrical box inside the condensing unit. It will have two or three terminals on top, each with four mounting lugs, with wires going off to the compressor and (if three terminals) also to the fan motor. It will be held in place with a strap.

The easiest way to diagnose this capacitor is by swapping it with a new part. If you have a capacitor tester, you can use it. Otherwise, just get a new one. Remove the old capacitor (do not lose track of what wires go where) and take it with you. The supply house clerk can help you get the proper new part.

When installing the new part, which may be a different size than the old part, the foam rubber and electrical tape may come in very handy.

The next most common cause of a no-start is a corroded and broken electrical connection. This may occur anywhere on any of the wires associated with the compressor, but often is found at the connections to the compressor itself, under the cover on the compressor. The skill level to fix this is low. Parts cost is usually under a dollar but may run more if it proves necessary to replace any wires. Pop the clip that holds the electrical cover on the compressor off, then remove the cover. If there is a faulted wire, remove it from the electrical box, and gently work the corroded connector off the terminal. Be careful here; the terminal may also be corroded and if you break it you may find yourself with no way to make a connection to the compressor (which would require you to replace the compressor). Get an appropriate crimp-on terminal (auto parts store, Radio Shack, or Walmart), clean up the wire, crimp the new connector onto the wire, and put it back on the terminal on the compressor.

The next most common failure is with the thermal protector inside the electrical cover on the compressor. The skill level to repair this is moderate, and to replace it the skill level is low. However you might have to repair it because you cannot find a replacement. Typically, wires corrode off here and you will find it necessary to solder on a new connection. Use appropriate techniques (and rosin core electrical solder - not plumbers solder) and have at it. If you can find a new part, it will cost less than , typically, and saves you having to solder an old part.

Next on the list is any sequencing relays that are in the unit. These are not commonly found, but exist in some units. The skill level to make this repair is moderate to high, mainly based on the requirement to properly diagnose the problem. The skill level to actually swap the component out is moderately low.

There may be an electronic controller in the unit rather than sequencing relays. The skill level to diagnose this is high, and the skill level to replace it is moderate.

Next is the compressor itself. The skill level to diagnose this item properly is moderately high. The skill level and equipment requirements to replace it are very high.

Next on the list are any pressure or temperature sensors that may be present in the system. The skill level to diagnose and replace these is high, and the equipment required to replace them is moderate to very high, depending on the details.

Now, in some units with a lot of age on them, the compressor may run just fine when it runs, but is unable to start against the load of the system. For these you can obtain a hard-start kit. This basically is a device that stores more energy and, when the compressor is told to start, shoots more current into it for a second (gives it a "kick in the pants"). This overloads the compressor and if sustained would burn it out, but it is not sustained. Besides, when it gets to this point, who cares if it burns out. It won't start anyway.

The hard start kit costs about and will often do the job. Of course, in this case you will probably be replacing the unit in a couple of years, but that is a couple more years for . Diagnosing this problem correctly is a fairly high skill thing. Installing the hard start kit is a moderate skill thing.

And that is it, more or less in order. As you can see, a compressor failure is a moderately low likelihood in any given case. The most common problems are things that just about anyone with a basic competence with tools can fix.


Do I Really Need a New Air Conditioner?

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Friday, November 25, 2011

Deadly Chemicals Found in Tap Water

!±8± Deadly Chemicals Found in Tap Water

You've probably heard before that tap water is no longer safe to drink. From agricultural runoff to household chemicals, you name it and you'll find traces of it in your tap water. The chemicals found in tap water not only make the water taste bad, they also pose a series of health risks. The rates of degenerative diseases have increased dramatically in the last century and scientists are certain that these chemicals we are exposed to on a daily basis are to blame. Here are 5 deadly chemicals in tap water and the effects they have on your health.

1. Chlorine is used to kill bacteria at water treatment plants. It "cleans" water by killing some strains of harmful bacteria but it is known to cause several types of cancer, including bladder, rectal, and breast cancer. When you shower with tap water, the chlorine is released in a gaseous form in the steam and can lead to bronchitis and asthma. To avoid the health problems associated with chlorinated tap water, you must shower with and drink filtered tap water.

2. Lead is the next most common of the chemicals found in drinking water. Most lead in your drinking water comes from lead lined pipes, brass plumbing fixtures, and lead solder. Even small amounts of lead are dangerous and can lead to reduced IQs, learning disabilities, and behavioral problems in children. Adults suffer from high blood pressure and other adverse health effects due to lead exposure.

3. Prescription drugs are now among the contaminants that are found in our drinking water. Traces of antibiotics, anti-convulsants, and sex hormones, to name a few, have been found in drinking water supplies nationwide. Studies show that the effects small concentrations of prescription drugs have on human cells and wildlife are alarming. The only way to prevent being exposed to these traces of prescription drugs is by drinking filtered tap water.

4. Weed killers are commonly found in tap water as a result of agricultural runoff. In an Environmental Working Group Study, 28 out of the 29 cities tested had water supplies contaminated with many different weed killers that pose very serious health risks. An estimated 45,000 infants in these cities drank formula made with tap water contaminated by a number of weed killers. Of the many chemicals found in tap water, weed killers are particularly dangerous because they are used so frequently and in such high concentrations.

5. Chlorine-resistant parasites can only be avoided by drinking filtered tap water. Water treatment plants don't do much more than simple swimming pool filters and chlorine-resistant parasites can be fatal to children and older adults. There are often outbreaks of parasites like Giardia and cryptosporidium in major cities and the only form of protection we have is drinking filtered tap water.

Do yourself a favor and start shopping around for a home water filtration system. The chemicals found in tap water pose many harmful effects to our health and they can't be ignored. These 5 contaminants are only the beginning. According to the Ralph Nader Study Group, there are more than 2,100 toxic chemicals in tap water that cause cancer. All that is known for sure is that the more we look, the more we find so the best way to keep you and your family safe is to invest in a home water filtration system.


Deadly Chemicals Found in Tap Water

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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

ATTEN 30V, 3A Professional Series Variable Regulated DC Power Supply

!±8± ATTEN 30V, 3A Professional Series Variable Regulated DC Power Supply

Brand : ATTEN | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 09, 2011 01:19:44 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Technical Specifications:Input voltage:110V +/-10%Frequency range: 60HzOutput Voltage Range: 0-30VOutput Current Range: 0-3APower: 90WVoltage/Current Display: LCD DisplayVoltage Display Accuracy: 0.1VCurrent Display Accuracy: 0.01ALoad Stability: < 0.1% +2mVPower Stability: < 0.1% +2mVRipple and Noise: < 3mVRMSCooling: Internal FanOperating temperature: 0-40 °CStorage temperature: -20-80 °CStorage and operating humidity: 80%RHWeight: 10.2 lbs.Dimensions: 10.6x5x6.7 inches(270x125x170mm)Includes: user's manual, power cable and test leads

  • This is a professional series heavy duty single-channel, constant-voltage and constant-current power supply with low ripple and noise, high reliability and high accuracy.
  • An easy to read 3 ½" digit LCD is used to display the voltage and current values.
  • The voltage and current are continuously adjustable with knows that are behind a panel to prevent accidental changes.
  • It also has circuit protection for over load, short circuit and over temperature.
  • It is designed for use in labs, colleges and in production.

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Saturday, November 5, 2011

Copper Foiling Tools for Stained Glass : Safety Mask in Copper Foiling

When soldering, its important not to breate chemicals. Learn how to wear a safety mask in this free video clip about using copper foiling for stained glass art. Expert: Anna Comly Bio: Anna Comly started doing stained glass in early 2001. She is skilled in the design and construction of leaded windows, copper foiling, and mosaics. Filmmaker: MAKE | MEDIA

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Sunday, October 30, 2011

Soldering Silver Findings to Jewellery

!±8± Soldering Silver Findings to Jewellery

Firstly, the silver to be soldered must be annealed. This is the initial softening of the silver to be joined; only the areas to be soldered need to be annealed - it is not necessary to anneal the piece as a whole. In order to carry out a successful annealing, use a blowtorch to heat the silver findings, you will need to maintain a constant temperature of around 1200æ F. As the silver findings heat up, they will change colour to a dull-pink - this is the temperature you want to maintain for approximately 30 seconds, and you can do this by gently moving the flame back and forth in accordance with the colour of the metal as it changes.

Once you have checked the parts to be soldered for gaps, you must apply some flux. Flux is a chemical cleaning agent that prevents the silver findings and the solder metal from oxidation. At room temperature, flux is practically inert but, as the temperature rises, it becomes strongly reducing and prevents the formation of metal oxides. It also allows the solder metal to flow easily.

The next stage is to cut and apply a piece of solder. For silver findings, solder metal can come in one of four grades: ex-easy, easy, medium, and hard. Each has its own melting point and different grades can be used in conjunction with one another for complex soldering. However, for silver findings, an easy grade solder is usual. The piece of soldering metal is then placed on or under the join that you wish to make.

The piece now needs to be heated. It is important not to heat the solder directly but, rather, heat the piece as a whole and heat will transfer into the solder material by conductivity. Many artisans use a solder probe or titanium stick for this purpose, allowing them to manipulate the piece and ensure the even spread of heat. The solder will begin to shine and then flow along the joint. It is at this point that the piece can be allowed to cool briefly.

Finally the piece needs to be quenched. This involves dunking the soldered findings into a solution of diluted sulphuric acid, to remove firestain; this solution is known as a pickle. It is best to remove the soldered piece from the pickle with a pair of brass, plastic or even copper tongs, as these are unlikely to contaminate the solution. The piece can then be washed in water. Once the piece is dry you can then begin polishing.


Soldering Silver Findings to Jewellery

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